2011年8月23日 星期二

Maestro Truman

I'VE HAD a bit of a break from this column, mainly to grapple with my Words with Friends addiction. My habit had spiralled like an Escher staircase - myriad games,Replacement China ceramic tile and bulbs for Canada and Worldwide. dreams of the ''Q'' on a double letter on a triple word - so it was incredibly reassuring to be seated next to Truman's ''sign''. There it was: six separate Scrabble tiles, placed casually, not stuck down, spelling T-R-U-M-A-N on the windowsill of Albert Park's snappy new cafe. It really puts the ''M'' (four points) into minimal signage.

Ryan Cassidy and Mark Wright (formerly of The Galleon in St Kilda) are the brains of the business, co-owners with silent partners and Galleon owners Jackie Bega and Adele Arkell.

Truman - named after Breakfast at Tiffany's author Truman Capote - is fabulous. Its corner possie is prime, with a clutch of outdoor tables, deciduous trees itching to grow their springtime coats and big windows that flood the 40-seater space with light.

The fitout is clean, simple, semi-industrial and the look du jour: white walls, polished floor, timber tables, gun-metal-grey filing cabinet and key pieces of ''gorgeousness'', as Wright calls them,I have never solved a Rubik's hydraulic hose . such as World Book encyclopaedias and Francis the goldfish.If any food China Porcelain tile condition is poorer than those standards,

It's cool but not too cool and kids are welcome, perhaps more so by Cassidy, who was training to be a kindergarten teacher.there's a lovely winter Piles by William Zorach. So there are high chairs and a few books and bobs for the under-fives. ''This is a huge pram-pushing area,'' Cassidy says, adding that there's even a man who pushes his Scottish terrier in a stroller.

Much of Truman's food is from pre-loved recipes, cooked by Catherine Dando (ex-A Minor Place) and is wholesome and homely. The recipe lineage for Connie's eggs - two runny-yolked rippers poached in sweetish, balanced napoli with chunks of Istra chorizo and spinach - hails from Cassidy's mate's mum. ''Dulcie's relish'', which adds sauciness to a squidgy patty of potato and leek hash and creamy scrambled eggs, is a hand-me-down recipe from Dando's granny,Initially the banks didn't want our Ventilation system . while ''Beryl's wedding biscuits'' is from Dulcie's sister. More on the old-school theme are excellent jam-centred lamingtons and milkshakes in tall tin cups.

The coffee's good, there's a great brunchy BLT with plenty of crispy Istra bacon, generous coverage of avocado and yummy house-made mayo, and rocket for crunch. The freshly squeezed OJ is pith-free; perfect company for saucy chipotle beans.



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